Monday 10 June 2013

GREAT ATMOSPHERE

The railway that runs from Dawlish to Teignmouth is the most expensive to maintain in Britain.  This is mostly because it is built along the seawall and, in places, along the beach and it is constantly beset by storms.  The rail line runs along the foot of the cliff to the left.


The railway was one of the first built by Brunel in the mid-1800s and was initially propelled by atmospheric pressure.  By building along the waterfront, Brunel managed to see off the competition from stagecoaches which had not been able to get down to the sea from the cliffs.  This is (I think) the Union of South Africa Torbay Express passing through at the weekend - still attracting a fair number of enthusiasts.


The South West Coastal Path runs more or less alongside the railway on this stretch, but, unlike the rail line, runs over the cliffs instead of through them.  This takes the coastal path up and down more often than the spot price of Brent crude.  Here it climbs alongside the few houses built on the cliffs.


And between garden walls.


Sadly, it swings back to the cliff edge just as it reaches The Smugglers Inn, so no temptations in one's way (unfortunately).


And up over the cliff, with Dawlish now clearly visible (and indeed Exmouth beyond) in the distance.


These cliffs are a constant problem.  Just a few days ago, another house, a little south of here, fell into the sea when the cliff collapsed.  The path is now quite close to the cliff edge.

 And as the path plunges down again into another hollow (only to climb steeply up again the other side), you can just see the rail line below disappearing again into a cliff tunnel (there are five along this stretch of coast).


Back among habitation on the clifftop, the path passes again through gardens.


  I turned back here across open fields, through farmland and the outskirts of Holcombe village. 


Sadly, these fields might not be open very much longer, as planning permission has been sought to build dwellings. 

The cirl bunting is a local species of bird, but I've never seen one, so I'm beginning to suspect it might be one of those imaginary creatures summoned up (like the lesser spotted newt) to prevent development.  From here the path passes through woodland, which I guess will not be redeveloped,


Back into Teignmouth.  A perfect way to spend a couple of hours at the end of the day, working up a thirst, ready to sit and watch another sunset.

7 comments:

  1. One of the most famous stretches of railway in the whole UK. It's been many years since I was last down that way. Splendid shots taken along the coastal path. It's a beautiful part of the country.

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    1. Well, I don't know, Mitch. There are some pretty famous railways in your part of the world - maybe famous for being numerous, or small gauge, or perhaps just difficult to pronounce?

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    2. Most of the more famous Welsh steam railways are further north, towards, or in, Snowdonia.

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  2. I got the train from Paddington to St Ives back in February. Unfortunately the section I think you're referring to was a 'replacement bus service'... for the very reasons you allude to.

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    1. Yes, it happens, Ian. Pity you missed the experience though; it does sometimes run through high waves.

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  3. Walked all this as part of our trek round the South West Coastal Path. Stunning cliffscapes.

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    1. There's talk now of it being made a National Park.

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